In Paris one’s olfactory senses are on pleasant overload. Boulangeries emit the scent of buttery croissants and fresh bread. Clothing boutiques smell like violets and inside the Metro train a veritable fusion of floral, woodsy, citrus scented Parisians go about their daily transit.
It was my nose that led me to the newly opened Paris Musee de Parfum when I asked a shopkeeper what perfume she was wearing. I’m not a perfume wearer but the violet scent was so…well, Parisian. She pointed to the Frangonard store across the street and encouraged me to visit its museum. Frangonard is a classic French perfumery house with its factory and expanded museum located in Grasse, France, the center of the French perfume world. Historically perfume was created to mask the body odor of the French nobility who bathed only twice a year. The Frangonard Paris museum showcases both the historic and contemporary art and science of creating “la parfum” in a series of displays but its factory tour in Grasse lets you watch the bottles being filled, soaps packaged and the workers going about their jobs. Before any of that occurs, though, comes the creative genius of the Nose (“le Nez”) or more technically, the Perfumer who creates the scent.
Becoming a Nose requires training and/or a pedigreed history of family Noses. In France there are three schools that teach the art. Often students enter the school with a degree in chemistry or botany and spend six more years studying and fine tuning their sense of smell. A single vial of perfume can have between 20 and 250 scents contained in the three notes of a perfume – the top note that can be immediately smelled, the middle note which comes slightly later and is the strongest (the French say the “most voluptuous”) and the base note also called the trailer note.
There are at any one time, about 50 highly regarded and sought after Noses. They command a salary of $50,000 a month and work only three days a week to keep their olfactory senses highly tuned. Typically they only work 20 years.
It is possible to have a scent created just for you or to create one yourself with the assistance of a Nose at any number of perfumeries in Paris or Grasse.